Heading back to Myself

End of mission. Ciao radio, security checks, curfews, IEDs and 24/7 phone. Welcome deep sleeps, books, massages, good food and inner silence. Southeast Asia, I'm coming back.

21 January 2015: Majid, Samanghan province, Afghanistan.

The Last Rocker of Mazar

Miles Davis and a smelly bukhari (Afghan fuel heater) are warming up my mood and room. Earlier in the afternoon, I got the very stupid idea of looking at readers's comments on a Swiss newspaper's website. Reading so many bitter people expressing their frustration on any single subject they could, without even knowing what they are talking about, raised a few questions in my mind. Is bashing everyone and everything around them making them feel better? Why are they considering themselves as "being a 100% Swiss" and why would it matter? "Hell is other people" wrote Sartre...But who cares... I finally got the chance to take a portrait I was initially supposed to take a year ago :-)

20 December 2014: Curzio, Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan.

Redefining Priorities

After more than a year in the field with a technically limited camera (poor or no AF, limited ISO, poor ergonomic), I bought last Summer a Fuji X-T1 with two lenses. It is not the first time that I'm trying to have a smaller camera, easier to carry than my usual Canon 5D and lenses (filing a backpack on their own). I bought a few compact cameras in the past but never really felt confortable with them and finally always preferred to work with my Canon. However, 18 months ago, the security situation in the places where I was working and the difficulty to travel with that heavy backpack forced me to change my plans and to use for some time a camera, limited to max 800 or 1600 ISO, with a pathetic AF system but great picture quality.While it restricted the number or kind of shots I could take (e.g. low light portrait), it surprisingly also improved my way of shooting. It forced me to better prepare my shoots, to care less about sharpness and more about content. And because I did not have enough shutter speed at low light, I was then forced to improve my slow shutter speed skills, learning something new.Since I bought a Fuji X-T1, I received several times the same questions "Is it better than Canon?" "Don't you miss a full frame sensor"? No, it is not as good as Canon (slower auto-focus, less ergonomic). But I can carry it with me more easily and adapt my pictures to its limitation. Like too many before me, I certainly wasted way too much time in the past focusing on equipment or picture's sharpness, rather than trying to improve my pictures and my eye.I had the pleasure to talk lately with another enthusiastic photographer about camera, photography in general and how photography coule make us become more attentive of things around us. A particular light, some expressions or any small details, making our life a bit different. And that's certainly what matters to me. Photographing those instants, those details that I like; or capturing some faces or moments I would like to keep for me.Maybe my camera can not shoot all the things another one could (e.g. challenging sport shots). But at least, I can have it with me in any bag and take the kind of shots I really like.

21 November 2014: A bread vendor during a buzkashi match in Mazar-e-Sharif, Northern Afghanistan

Back on his Feet

Taking pictures during an official visit has never been my favorite activities in photography. The usual same handshaking, the same discussion, the same attitudes and the same problems to manage (remain discrete, try to fit as many VIP as possible in the frame, avoid people looking at me, etc...). Not unpleasant, but usually not the most exciting neither. Except when side moments give you some interesting opportunities...

22 November 2014: A young patient at the ICRC orthocenter in Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan

For my first weekend in months without setting a foot in my office, it actually feels weird, but nice, to end up processing two big batches of pictures again.

Buzkashi

With the cold making a comeback in Afghanistan, the new Buzkashi season started 2 weeks ago in Mazar-e-Sharif. Rather brutal (more than during my last visit), it remains an incredible experience.After almost a year in Afghanistan, I sometimes still find difficult to realize that I am really working and living here. I still remember reading the book "The Photographer" and being fascinated by the pictures of the late Didier Lefèvre. This country was supposed to stay in my imagination, a fantasy in my traveler's mind. Realizing that I went today to a Buszkashi match, like others go to a cinema, is just an additional reminder of how my life has changed. For the better and for the rest... :-)

21 November 2014: A buzkashi match in Mazar-e-Sharif, Northern Afghanistan

21 November 2014: An Afghan rider during Buzkashi match in Mazar-e-Sharif, Northern Afghanistan

Winter is Coming

2°C in Kunduz and a strange feeling of déjà vu.

07 February 2014: Ghulam Hussein, Kunduz, Afghanistan

Return to Forrest

Playing tennis table alone doesn't exactly sound like fun, even if you are stuck in a compound, with nobody else to play against. That was until I discovered that ping pong robot existed. Forrest Gump would have been amazingly jealous (and would have lost) :-)

01 October 2014: Piotr, ICRC staff and passionated table tennis player. Kabul, Afghanistan

Dreams of Home

While summer is slowly coming to an end and my first thoughts on my next mission starting to appear, I suddenly wish I were in Southeast Asia, Home, eating street food and shooting portraits. Quietly, before going back to another crazy mission. Soon... inch'allah.

24 September 2014: On the road between Taloqan and Fayzabad, Northeastern Afghanistan

26 September 2014: Afghans during Maghrib prayer in Fayzabad, Northeastern Afghanistan

Humans of Afghanistan

Driving about 20km to visit an old city and listening to a guy speaking about the challenges faced when renovating the local mosque is rarely a weekend highlight. But when it happens in Afghanistan, visiting Balkh city and the Masjid Sabz (Green Mosque) becomes a fantastic adventure. Another reminder that, without the war, Afghanistan could be a great place for tourism and trekking.

16 August 2014: Young Afghan in Balkh city, Northern Afghanistan

P.S: And yes, I'm the happy (so far) owner of a Fuji x-t1 with a 23mm 1.4. Let's see what I can do with it...

Takeoff

Fuji X-T1 and a lovely 23mm lens or more money on my bank account. Fuji X-T1 and a lovely 23mm lens or more money on my bank account. Fuji X-T1 and a lovely 23mm lens or more money on my bank account...

12 July 2014: Daniel, at D-4 of his end of mission, Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan.(unretouched)

Edit: To respond to the usual question asked lately, no, this picture was not photoshopped. I never add / remove / modify elements in my pictures and only play with contrast/colors/exposure, when needed.

Contrasted Bubble

After a long week, quiet evening at home, in Kunduz, with the AC on, trying to minimize the effects of the 44°C outside. The wifi provides me with a slow but surprisingly stable access to the world and to Moby's new song, Scarlet's latest movie and answers to my numerous questions.

Perfect moment in music, in my bubble, only interrupted at regular intervals by the sound of fighting a few kilometers away. My old new friend Skunk Anansie resumes singing and the weekend continues. Weird life.

26.06.2014: Afghans "encouraging" themselves to start dancing. Kunduz, Afghanistan.26.06.2014: Afghan musiciens. Kunduz, Afghanistan

The Cost of Life

Up to 500 people died last Friday due to a landslide in Badakhshan province, Afghanistan. After two days looking for survivors, the local Governor declared "We cannot continue the search and rescue operation anymore, as the houses are under meters of mud. We will offer prayers for the victims and make the area a mass grave".

A few thousands of kilometers from there, hundreds of people have been working since March 8th, to find, in the middle of the ocean, missing flight MH370 and its 227 passengers and 12 crew members. It represents, according to the estimations, more than USD100 million spent for the operation (and therefore more than ICRC's budget  in Afghanistan for 2013).

How much are we ready to invest to find the mortal remains of relatives? Is there a limit to everything, a maximum cost to truth? I wonder...

02 May 2013: Lucia, Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan

Field Trip

First field trip to Badakhshan province, in the North East of Afghanistan. The region could be a paradise for tourists, nature lovers and trekkers (as it was the case 50 years ago), if it was not experiencing daily security incidents. One day... inch'allah.

16 April 2014: Butchers at Taloqan's market, Takhar province, Afghanistan

15 April 2014: Called Zarang, Tuk-tuk are frequently used in Afghanistan, as a taxi or to transport materials. Badakshan province, Afghanistan

In the Ghetto

Without me even noticing it, almost 4 months past since my arrival in Afghanistan. Last weekend, despite the insecurity and the threats, millions of Afghans went voting for a new president. Winter is over, my pullovers returned to my trunk (a place they should never have left) and the ice cream vendors started squatting Mazar's streets, filling them with annoying music, announcing their presence. A new routine in my life...

12 April 2014: Farewell dinner for the departure of some colleagues. Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan.

Arctic Portrait

-19°C outside, heavy snow falls and all the roads are blocked. Perfect moment to take 5 minutes for some fun, hoping the camera won't freeze (like the water in the toilets). I love Afghanistan.

06 February 2014: Prof. Mehrabuddin, Kunduz, Afghanistan

The Proof is in the Carpet

- Do you mind if I take a picture of you?

- Could you take one step back?

- Just look at me.

- Thanks. Tashakur!

18 January 2014: Mr. Rohullah, (proud) carpet seller in Mazar-e Sharif, Afghanistan

Goodbye my friend...

2013 started with champaigne in Cameroun, following an evacuation from CAR and finished in Afghanistan, talking around a shisha. Summarizing it faithfully would be impossible, except maybe with these 3 words: What A Year!!

I wish you all a fantastic year 2014, full of great surprises, happiness, stability and lots of fun. Please take care of yourself and keep saving the world, however you can ;-)

14 January 2014: Workers in Mazar-e Sharif streets, Afghanistan

Daydream

Some places are part of our unconsciousness. Documentaries we saw when we were children, books we read, movies we watched, picture we admired or stories we heard. So when you find yourself in the middle of such a place, for real, a weird but pleasant feeling appears. Mix between reality and dream, surprise and déjà vu. I am walking in Afghanistan, watching a buzkashi game.

20 December 2013: Buzkashi riders in Mazar-e Sharif, Afghanistan

First shot

Each mission and travel has its first shot. Rarely the best, but I hope to do better (and with better gear), if the situation allows it. Wait and see...

14 December 2013: Mr. Haji Esa, carpet seller, Kunduz, Afghanistan